The State of Nats #11: Hotpot living
[Everything between November 12 and the day of publishing this]
Ha Noi, Vietnam
Data
Noodle bowls intake: 9
Coffees consumed: 23
Books read: 1
Bangalore, my never home
Before heading to Vietnam I spent a few days in Bangalore in two neighbourhoods. I consumed my standard platter of idlis and dosas, with a more recent addition of the glorious Mangalorean bun (once of Sachin Tendulkar’s favourite snacks, I know this because I know this). However, for once the highlight of my travel was not food, but people.
- I stayed with Tanvi (FULL NAMES NOW? THE SCANDAL). It is often a cinematic experience to see her, and I am certain she plans it such; I got a window into her life; Tanvi's generic weekend.
- I met her lovely friends Ankur and Shruti who ensured we were amused and inspired by every sentence they uttered in succession. We played games, ate pizza, drank freshly invented cocktails and one by one dropped on the floor-cushions like sleepy flies, cancelling all outdoor plans. Shruti gave me two gifts, (a) new music to love (b) acknowledgement and praise of the two lone pieces I have on my Substack. And she was kind enough to let me revise my reaction to her initial praise. Ankur, an aged 26 year old, reminded me of my enthusiasm for Mona Awad. I am reading “We love you Bunny” and I am not having fun. Evidence suggests I blame Tanvi for that. Now, 30% of the book is left for any redemption.
- I met Geoffrey for the Steven Wilson concert, and ran into an old friend. I am not sure he remembers meeting me that night.
- I stayed with Anurup and fell in love with the potential of his apartment.
- Anurup gave me a coupon to buy books at Blossoms, which felt magical. I shared this coupon with Ames, and in total we purchased two books from this magic coupon. PEOPLE tend to frown upon gift cards but they are increasingly becoming my favourite gift choices. It revitalises an otherwise regular chore or experience. I Buying books is admittedly one such regular experience. But the unexpected coupon changed my purchase behaviour. The book purchase decision was based on one that felt like a treat. I bought a copy of the latest from Olga Tokarczuk. This will give me fresh inspiration and nightmares.
- Anurup took us to Soka, the bar that serves great cocktails, vibes and debt.
- I bought a new suitcase.My rucksack life is over, killed by logic of travel in SE Asia with a bougee partner.
I left Bangalore with a cleansed palette. I was lathered with ghee in my oesophagus. I was tad bit stoned from idli fermentation. Buzzing with Pho potential, I detoxed on bread to be ready for Vietnamese baguettes. I learnt hello, thank you and goodbye in butchered Vietnamese. I boarded ready for elation.
Hanoi, my old home
There are a few rules I have set up for myself this time. I will start to record experiences, thoughts and attitudes in a randomised order. This is perhaps the most honest approach, as all thought patterns are appearing incoherently.
But first, a declaration. Darling Ha Noi, I am back!
- I am fermenting in Hanoi. Immersed in the figurative jar of motorbikes, coffee and mouth watering aromas, I am evolving. I make my own salt. And seasoning. I am going to be different by the time I leave this place. My state changed. Am I cucumber? No. But am I letting the city move me. Maybe. I knew it in 2017 that I would be back here. And I felt settled the minute I ate my first banh mi.
- I miss cucumbers. I miss eggs. I bought cheese today out of fear of chronic cheese withdrawal.
- I saw the train street and said adios faster than the speed of sound.
- Found a new sauce to love.
- I am logging every single coffee cup I drink, and every bowl of noodle I devour. Each of these are so pleasurable that they transcend my earthly form and speak to all my past reincarnations (time is a flat circle). As of writing this, I am done with 23 cups of coffee and 9 bowls of noodles.
- I got nail extensions. The process was wonderful but I could not last in the long nails for 12 hours. The next morning I filed them to a “reasonable” size. \
- I got looted by a Vietnamese lady selling me longan. I knew it was over priced and she, having shoved the bag in my hands, refused to take it back pretending she cannot understand me. I can appreciate the hustle and admire when I have been bested. The longan are delicious.
- I made some procreate art and posted. Ew feeling.
- We had hotpot! I ACED IT!
- I celebrated my birthday on an overnight cruise on Lan Ha Bay. To get there, I travelled in a limousine that had massage seats. That was a blissful nap.
- I went for kayaking with Rudi. This continues to be idiotic to me. I agree for these activities even though I remain terrified throughout the experience. The during is never pleasurable. The after is delightful only as an accomplishment. I cannot understand the thrill in the act of rowing over bottomless waters or going under caves where the water is a black abyss. At least the walking cave was fun, which in classic over tourism fashion did give us moments of fear of lack of circulation and heavy air.
- The cruise did a whole bunch of things around my birthday and it was deeply embarrassing during these “displays”.
- I saw beautiful water birds. And fish. And tourists getting photo shoots done in traditional attire. I need to get that tailored for myself.
- I cried in a Starbucks and took delight in thinking the barista hated Rudi, assuming he was breaking up with me.
- I have a daily morning coffee spot and they recognise me.
People we meet on vacation
- I met a lovely German lady who is waiting to be employed as a therapist while eating Pho alone. She mentioned, as emphatically as possible, about the racism she faced in Africa. She was logical but the vibe I brought was confusion.
- I met a french couple and held back every minute of asking this question "so how does it feel to visit a country your ancestors looted?" or "when you see the world your ancestors created, do you feel guilt, shame or pride?"
- I also met a woman from Bangalore from works in data. I asked her if she wanted to say anything to me that she would like to say out loud with no consequences. She opted to not mention any such thought, soon said goodbye and left the table.
- A desi man sat next to me by the lake and continued to tell me everything about his travel and how he works in jewel exports and he has been to Europe 100s of times. Oh-well-yes-you-have-been-to-Prague-Natasha well Indian man made it a point to tell me how women in Prague are so-beautiful-the-best-looking and that he was in Hanoi to chill-and-party-what-else-to-do-here.
- Met two doctors from Tamil Nadu. I was the one to start a conversation. So I was the creep.
Culture consumption
I rewatched Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy and IT IS STILL THE BEST SPY FILM. I also watched The Da Vinci Code when I was craving a comedy film, and timely passed out to the closing credits.
See you soon,
Nats